Back from a long weekend in the inscrutable city of Berlin. This is my fourth or fifth visit to the German capital, and I must say the overall impression has become one of confusion. Berlin seems to be many things at once: a quintessentially political city trying to build a progressive, transparent future onto a violent past (see Reichstag, above); the ur-hipster city; a den of vice; a magnet for the young and cool; an Eastern European backwater full of unemployment, obesity, and mullets; a contemporary art capital. Quite a lot to wrap one's mind around.
Fortunately, my goals were a bit less complicated than getting to the heart of the enigma. A little sightseeing with A, who had never been (here engaging in typical tourist behavior. I tried to say no but he just insisted on being photographed in this pose):
4 comments:
I've only been to Berlin once, but it was, entirely coincidentally, November 1989. So I may not have gained an entirely accurate impression of the city.
Nonetheless I loved it. Dirty like London, still with random walls pockmarked with bullet-scars, Nazi relics (the Olympic stadium is pregnant with history), underground culture, and a fascinating train/tram system that couldn't have been better designed for sightseeing (including one U-bahn line that passed over razor wire and through East Germany before looping back into the West).
Alas, the Hauptbahnhof obviously wasn't built when I was there, so I am envious of your trip...
Quite a coincidence! Are you sure you didn't have a former life of international espionage?
Let's just say I like to feel my presence in Berlin made some small contribution to the changes... let's just leave it at that.
I am, in fact, the Forrest Gump of international relations, in an itinerary that includes the overthrow of President-for-Life Bourguiba while I was enjoying a particularly fertile stay in Tunisia and, shortly before my first visit, the end of apartheid in South Africa.
But now I'm boasting.
Loving the Lustgarten. Feel we should cultivate one of our own...
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