Brazil

This country of sun, sand, and samba has captured the imagination of our travelers.

We have learned many things, but mostly this: all the stereotypes, good and bad, are true. The people are beautiful and friendly. Getting from point A to point B is never simply a matter of distance, rate, time, and Euclidean geometry, but rather a crapshoot with a mischievous capricious god. One sees both a rising power claiming its place in the world and a sweltering tropical republic where it seems foolhardy to even contemplate the possibility of planning to perhaps, if one feels like it, have a go at accomplishing something--after just one more drink.

I won't try to recount all the tales of our adventures in Brazil. You'll have to be content with a few illustrative vignettes.

1) Rio is a city of stunning natural beauty, from the sparkling sea, to the lush, jungle-covered mountains, to the sculpted physiques of its inhabitants (though this last one may not be entirely natural). We explored these wonders from an excellent b+b in the bohemian barrio of Santa Teresa, under the watchful care of hosts Pedro and Ro and the long-suffering Maurizio.

2) Scuba diving was tried for the first time, and deemed awesome. It shall be repeated in a bigger, better fashion.

3. The Abrohlos archipelago is a tiny paradise in the middle of nowhere, populated only by some friendly goats, a range of frigate birds and boobies, and a small contingent of the Brazilian Navy.

A couple of boobies:

This deserted island chain is where we spent the last night of the first decade of the 21st century. Much to our delight, the Navy invited us to join them on the island for their celebrations. Morale was high.

Imagine our surprise, then to find NOT, as we had hoped, a raucous fiesta of fun-seeking Brazilian seamen, but rather what seemed to be a suburban barbecue full of elderly family members and small children. The beer (which we had brought) was nowhere to be found. To add insult to injury, the food was put off limits until midnight (as is the Brazilian custom) by which time the island's many cockroaches had had a chance to pick through the choicest morsels. Moral was low.

4) However, one can do worse than while away some days on a hippie beach in Bahia.

A wasted little time acquiring an impractically heavy and bulky collection of wooden trinkets, bits of reed woven together, and arte naif.

5) Salvador's mix of decaying grandeur and youthful dynamism is intoxicating.

Its real estate opportunities are similarly enticing, as are its other charms.

7. The prevalence of religiosity amongst the population allowed the travelers to get in touch with their spiritual sides

8. Rio is beautiful, but Sao Paolo is a city.

In fact, it is a such a cosmopolitan center that it boasts--according to A's Brazilian colleagues--the best Japanese food in the world (including in Japan) and the best Italian food in the world (including in Italy). Regarding this last point, I will contribute just one observation. At the municipal market, everyone was scarfing down what they called 'sandwhiches de mortadella'. These consisted of a hamburger bun, a large pile of chemically pink meat, and a good smothering of ketchup. The grandmothers of Bolonga would have been blinded by the sight.

In fact, food was pretty poor in general. A lot of money can be spent eating very mediocre food in Brazil. The major exception was Bahia, where 10 reais will buy you something filling, fresh, and fantastically spicy.

9. F wasted no time building contacts with local 3rd sector leaders.

Our weeks in Brazil allowed only a small, superficial scratch. Thankfully, there will be a next time.